nathan

Six Things I Do in Istanbul

Here’s your Flickr set.

Like Nas said when he was in Istanbul, “I never sleep ’cause sleep is the cousin of death.” This place has turned in to quite the nocturnal city for me. There is constantly action, activity, and a bunch of people out late. I don’t go to sleep before 3:00 in the morning here, and it’s often later than that.

So what am I doing with myself on these late nights in Istanbul? How about an easily digestible list and a bunch of pictures?

1. Accompany Franz to Photo Shoots

I’m working on a video project for a club here called Indigo. This means that I go there on Friday and Saturday nights with Franz and “help” him shoot video. Essentially this means that I get in for free, hang out, and try to point out things that would make good video. Here’s Indigo:

Indigo on a Friday

Franz waits for the Metro. Girls always do this to him.

Franz shoots the DJ

We also go to a place called “Dogz Star” on occasion. Despite it’s stupid name, it’s a cool place — even when the music is eardrum-splittingly loud metal or electro-goth DJ girl. Three levels with the top level playing cool old American rock and some genuinely different music acts on the stage downstairs. We saw a guy called called “Art Dictator” who played guitar over pre-recorded drum tracks, and screamed with misogynistic comics he drew projected on the wall behind him.

This is Art Dictator along with some other Dogz Star shots:

Art Dictator at Dogz Star

Goth-electro DJ at Dogz Star At Dogz Star

Heavy Metal at Dogz Star

Metal will never die. Austrian Girl at Dogz Star

2. Buy Flowers for my Turkish Mom

Roommate Hatice’s mom came to stay with us for five days. She was incredible. An unstoppable Turkish force of delicious cooking and thorough cleaning. She actually arrived at our apartment with bags of pastries. She baked a cake and brought it. She cooked us dinner every night and served breakfast in the morning. She cleaned places in our apartment that I didn’t know existed. I thought to buy her some flowers and Bryan told me how to say, “I love you, Mom” in Turkish, though it certainly doesn’t compensate for her awesomeness.

This is her and Hatice along with some examples of the delicious:

Mom, Hatice, Nathan

Delicious dinner that my Turkish Mom cooked. Bryan admires the spread our Turkish Mom brought

Mom wears some DJ shirt. Delicious Baklavah

3. Enjoy my membership in the Spanish-American City Exploration Club

We’ve currently only got two members in the SACEC, but it works out well. Bryan and I go all over the place here. An architect, he’s like a kid in a candy store at construction sites or places with interesting architecture. Dude can talk serious shop when it comes to structures.

One day, we went to have tea during an open gallery at a contemporary art organization that is only two blocks from our apartment. The current gallery installation is a kitchen. Just a kitchen. It looks like a kitchen and works like a kitchen. It has tea. But this kitchen is special because it’s art. …. Eh.

After the disappointing art and uncomfortable conversation with the girls working at the gallery, we decided to just get on the Metro and take it to the end of the line. Fun and city exploration ensued. We do something like this every few days. We dubbed our first outing “Leventate!” (sorta like “levantate” en espanol) thanks to the name of the last Metro stop, Levent.

Typical Turkish Tea Leventate, Day 1

Levent, Istanbul

The SACEC also enjoys evenings on the town on weekends:

Random Turkish Girls

Nathan + Random Turkish GirlRandom Turkish Girls Dance

Nathan + English Colorist + Romania + Bryan

4. Listen to the Sounds of the Street Sellers

People are always walking down the streets with carts or baskets of stuff. Usually food, but occasionally random junk. They yell out whatever it is they’re selling and you just yell back at them from your window if you want them to stop. My favorite, though, are the gas trucks from the gas company Aygaz. They play a 4 second jingle on every block with a female voice that sings, “Ayyyygaz!” to announce their presence in case you need a new tank of gas for your stove. America has musical ice cream trucks, Turkey has musical gas trucks.

The Damned Aygaz Ice Cream Truck

5. Hang Out with the Roommates

This takes various forms, but involves things like playing games, watching Hatice (who is truly the Turkish version of my sister) try on outfits and giving her feedback, taking in stray cats and then kicking them out upon Bryan’s allergic reactions, and home improvement tasks (with or without ninja garb):

Rebecca Deals Hatice tries on her outfit.

Hatice + Cat Sour Puss hates you.

Table Paint Ninja, pt. 2

Found Cloth Curtain Project 2009 Found Cloth Curtain Project 2009

Hatice + Bryan

6. Miss Colombia

Colombia remains tops for me on my trip. As my friend Steve put it, “Some places just fit.” It was just a place on a map until I’d been and now care about people that live there.

bogota_bombing_farcFlipping through the headlines on CNN yesterday, I got goosebumps when I read about a bomb blowing up in an area I used to hang out in Bogota and killing two people, one of them a 25 year-old girl. (The bomb was actually placed inside an ATM that I had personally used while in Bogota.) Despite the fact that the odds were minuscule that Mafe (pictured below in a photo taken a few blocks from where the bomb went off) was affected, I didn’t really feel at ease until I heard heard from her.

Mafe + NathanIt’s interesting to reflect on the way I felt about headlines like this before I left and after visiting Colombia. Before leaving, headlines of this sort almost elicited a Devil-may-care laugh from me. That changes when you’ve got friends in a place and remember what it looks like because you actually walked around there. … And used the damned Citibank ATM that the FARC blew up.

… That’s all for now, y’all!

Here the Flickr set link again. I added a picture of Fantom Bar in the previous post, too, for the curious.

8 Responses to “Six Things I Do in Istanbul”

  1. stileson 29 Jan 2009 at 12:53 pm

    Really need video and audio of the ice cream gaz truck! And what the hell is Bryan doing with the screw driver, beer bottle and kerchief over his face??? Please tell me it doesn’t involve a cat.

  2. amyshipleyon 30 Jan 2009 at 10:57 am

    I want Hatice’s mom to come to my house.

  3. amyshipleyon 30 Jan 2009 at 10:58 am

    still like “drink and party”

  4. VeachEon 31 Jan 2009 at 9:19 am

    Taipei = musical garbage trux. Woot. Took a while till mi amiga y yo figured out that’s where the sound was coming from. Shyeah! Come ‘n’ get it!

  5. nanfanon 02 Feb 2009 at 11:20 pm

    Your jeans are looking REALLY worn out. Maybe Hatice’s mom could help you shop for a new pair. Is that in your budget? Just saying.
    Love you!

  6. nathanon 03 Feb 2009 at 5:26 am

    @ Stiles: You’re close. That is actually a small paint roller and the only “pan” we could come up to put the black table paint in. The doctors are giving the cat a better-than-fifty percent chance.

    @ Mom: They are. It’s be come a personal vendetta of mine to refuse to replace them until my trip is over. I will keep getting them repaired. They’ve been fixed once in Lima, once in Medellin, and then once in Bogota. They’ve needed attention since Poland, though, and I’m reluctant to wash them at the moment because it usually makes the knee holes bigger.

  7. Jocelynon 03 Feb 2009 at 8:15 pm

    The Aygaz truck grew on me so quickly, and now it’s one of the things I miss the most. And no one here gets it when I try to explain the sheer hilarity and beauty of it, for shame.

    I completely know what you mean about how living in a place- or even just visiting- changes perceptions when you hear news from there later. I was more affected by the Mumbai attacks than I was by 9/11, or even attacks in Israel near where I lived on a kibbutz in the South. I think part of it is that it was a unique experience, not something I shared with all the folks around me here and now.

    Anyway- keep up the great writing and pics so I can live vicariously through you. :-)

  8. nathanon 04 Feb 2009 at 5:52 am

    @ Jocelyn: Thanks! You got it.

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