Jun 28th, 2008
The Memories to Keep’a from Ole Arequipa
Here’s the Arequipa flickr set.
Greetings from Arequipa, Peru! Don’t know where that is? I didn’t either. Here’s a map. Look south, geography major:
I’m Novel Again
There are many fewer gringos here in Arequipa than in touristy Cuzco and more people glance/look/stare at me and my golden frock here. I’m at a point where it doesn’t bother me anymore and I’ve taken to smiling at people who stare at me. Kids tug on their parent’s hands and point, girls either ignore me or giggle, young guys usually assume a macho stance, and middle aged men nod at me.
How to Ignore Your Hosts Safety Advice: A walk with some locals outside the Green Zone
Upon arrival at the Bothy Hostel here in Arequipa, the guy working at the hostel explained to me where it was safe to walk. With a green marker, he indicated the 3 by 5 block area I could walk on safely as shown in this picture. I would chose to disregard this advice.
I arrived in Arequipa by bus from Cuzco at 6:30 in the morning. The sun was just coming up over the nearby volcano which is called “El Misti.” Not a very bad-ass name for a Volcano, eh? It sounds more like an 80′s era melon-flavored aspartame soft drink or perhaps the name of a My Little Pony. I probably would have gone with something more along the lines of “Lavador de Muerte” or “Senor Fuego y Terror.” Whatever.
I was tired by the time I got to the hostel. I find it impossible to sleep on buses and airplanes and instead spent the quiet hours of 2 to 4 in the morning listening to Wu Tang’s “36 Chambers.” This was, of course, after I was done being riveted to our family-friendly in-cabin entertainment of “Free Willy 3.” No joke.
After a 4 hour nap and a shower, with my Green Zone Map in hand, I set out to explore Arequipa. After walking all of four or five minutes, I sat down in a small park. A group of people came over and sat down next to me. They talked in Spanish for a while, and eventually I was able to understand something they said and laughed with them in that psuedo-creepy “Ha ha, what a funny bunch you are. Yes, I’m eavesdropping on your conversation and want you to include me in it even though you don’t know me” way.
The ploy worked because they started talking to me (en Espanol) without even seeming weirded out. They are a group of students here in Arequipa. We talked more, exchanged phone numbers and emails, and then went on our ways. Manuel walked with me and suggested a restaurant that I could get some good food Peruvian food at. I got a double hamburger.
A few hours later, after walking around some more by myself, two of the girls (Paty and Kharol) called and said they would be in the park and I met up with them to go for a walk. …Out of the Green Zone!
It was cool in it’s Devil-may-care rebelliousness against the forces of the Bothy Hostel that would seek to hold me down (and keep me safe?). They were decent enough guides and told me about things we were walking by. They explained some common tricks people might use to rob me and pointed out some dangerous areas. We walked to a hill-top park with a nice view of the city.
Additionally, we were hit up twice by a guy selling some religious piece of paper – once in each park by the same guy. The second time we saw him I said, somewhat sternly, “No. Lo siento.” (No. I’m sorry.) This prompted a surprise mini-tirade directed at me that I couldn’t really understand followed by him walking off in a huff.
Arequipa Lesson #1: Be gentle with your rejection statements to so-called “darker” guys selling things at night. The girls said, “He is dark. He is not from Arequipa. He’s from the mountains. He’s a rat and he will rob you at knife point if you are rude like that.” It seemed racist and holier-than-thou as they were talking about him in this manner, but I respect and appreciate any advice that could preclude a gringo slashing. Sorry, religious paper-selling guy. I don’t judge you, nor was my intention to be rude to you. I just don’t want to buy your religious paper.
Pomp and Circum-Prance: Arequipa’s “First Gay March”?
As I was finishing my late-night sandwich in a small restaurant, a commotion arose in the street. Hooting, hollering, honking-horns, and heavy-hootered harlots passed before my eyes. There were scantily-clad women walking, scantily-clad women on floats, plenty of normally-clad on-lookers, and annoyed taxis who were blocked by the parade. I paid for my meal and went outside to see what all the fuss about.
It was immediately evident that the well-endowed women I saw from inside the restaurant were men in dresses. I asked a middle-aged guy standing outside a different restaurant what it was and he said that it was the “first gay march in Arequipa.” It appeared more like Arequipa’s first transvestite / transgender march to me, but perhaps this particular Arequipenan isn’t as well versed as your average America at differentiating between the particulars of the GLBT community.
Unfortunately I didn’t have my camera with me. I didn’t want it to get taken if I ran in to the religious paper seller again.
The event made for an interesting, boisterous, fabulous, and surprisingly accepted occasion. I expected more negative shouts from the on-lookers, but most people just seemed to take it in and were curious about what was going to happen. Good stuff.
Hot Water and The Electrocutioner: A Silent Menace
Around 2 in the afternoon, the showers are at their hottest at the Bothy Hostel. The Incas would thank the Sun God for this. These cisterns are on the roof of the hostel. They have pipes that come up from the water supply to feed them. The water then goes through more pipes to these solar panels where it is heated. Next, the sun-heated water goes back in to the hostel and through this inline hot water booster that, while I’m having quiet, pensive cleaning time in the shower, I like to respectfully call “The Electrocutioner.”
I have yet to muster the courage to actually reach out and touch The Electrocutioner. It’s front three-way switch is very tempting – but more in a “Go ahead, Adam, eat the apple” kind of way. It silently and ever-menacingly does it’s job so I can enjoy a hot shower. A good system. A system of natural power charged by industrial fury and space-age plastics. A system I respect from a distance. Indeed, a good system.
Delicious Alpaca for Dinner and Dancing with Scottish Med Student Girls
I went for dinner on Friday night with a gaggle of girls who wanted to try alpaca meat. We went to a nicer restaurant in the Plaza de Armas with a view of the square – nice view. There were two Americans girls, me, and the rest of the girls were Scottish med students on an 8 week trip. I will also add that this occasion made for two more favorite pictures of the trip.
Alpaca is really tasty! It is a lighter meat – closer to beef than chicken – but very trim and not chewy. The entire table was roundly excited about the alpaca meat and gave it positive reviews. Que rico! Additionally, one of the girls managed to talk the restaurant tout in to giving us a free round of Pisco sours as he and three other people were vying for our business on the street. Nice.
From here we continued on to a bar called Deja Vu which we heard would have live music. It was a lot of fun. The America girls had to leave early so it was just me and the Scots. We compared cultures and talked about all manner of things. I got a kick out of the UK phrase “minger” (also used as an adjective, “minging,” meaning “ugly”) and they thought the US phrase “double fisting it” was about the dirtiest and most absurd way possible you could refer to someone with two drinks.
After Deja Vu, we went to a salsa bar. I tried. I really did. I’d call it a moderate success even. The Peruvian chick I was dancing with seemed alright enough dancing with me. She probably just had to ignore Dancing King Rico Suave next to us to avoid feeling like the Dancing Partner Gods gypped her. The Scottish girls, on the other hand, also had no idea what they were doing and were fine with all of it.
From there we went to another bar to dance and then yet another after that. By the end it was just me, Roisen (pictured above on left), and the tall blonde girl (right), who’s name I either never learned or have forgotten, dancing to a mix of electronica and Latin music. You should have seen the place erupt when a Shakira “My Hips Don’t Lie” remix came on.
After a bit of this I was exhausted and went back home. I reflected on the fact that I both had a fantastic evening and that I think my hips actually do lie. Whatever that means.
Go to Lima. Go Directly to Lima. Do Not Pass Go. Do Not Collect $200.
It’s been a good stay, but it’s gonna be a short stay here in Arequipa. Only three days and two nights. I’m headed back to Lima via another Cruz Del Sur Mobile Hotel Cruiser to arrive on Sunday morning in time to catch the Sunday morning paper, El Comercio. El Comercio is where Lima goes to find apartments and housing to rent. Sunday’s edition has the biggest selection of apartments in a convenient pull-out classifieds section.
I’m going to try to find a cheap place to stay for a month and call my own. I’m going to take some Spanish classes. Maybe I’ll join a club. (Do they have a model rocketry club in Lima? If not, maybe I can start it. For the kids. And for Steve Stiles.) Maybe I’ll even whore myself and my English language skillz out to people that want to practice speaking English with a native speaker! All of these could be both productive and a good way to meet more locals.
I like this idea. I like the idea of spending more time in one place than spending a little time in a lot of places. I’ve enjoyed seeing Cuzco and Arequipa, but it seems clear that – at least as I like things – I’m more prone to have meaningful experiences if I can take the time to be in one place, get to know it, and make friends. That has started in Lima, but, on the other hand, I had to leave Cuzco and friendly bartender Junior before I really even got to know them.
So, after a month in Lima, I won’t be an expert by any means, but I’ll have a pretty decent idea of what it’s like to live in the capitol of Peru. Pretty cool, eh?











































